The number of times a fish is lost through line breakage is not great. At least ten fish break the hook hold for every line that is broken. By using a light line and playing the fish carefully, many of the lightly hooked fish are saved instead of lost; and even if the lines were broken twice as often while playing fish, (which is not probable) the net catch will be greater. More than that, since the lighter line permits longer and more accurate casts, more fish should be hooked, another factor favoring a larger catch.
The baitcasting reel should be as good as one can afford. It should be level winding and, especially for the beginner, it should have a backlash-reducing feature. Any good reel of any reputable manufacturer will turn in a creditable performance, a factor that holds true right down the tackle line. It’s wise to remember that the difference in efficiency between an average rod and the very best one is not likely to be more than a few percent although the difference in satisfaction and pleasure derived from its use may be very great. The beginner needs only tackle of good design and quality which will send his lures out to the fish and let him play when they’re hooked. The rest can come later. His chief concern should not be the acquiring of special or extra tackle but having a good, dependable outfit and learning how to use it.
His lures need be only a minimum and I believe he will learn more by having only a few lures of the right type and finding out when to use them and why each is effective under certain conditions. To walk into a tackle store with hundreds of shining lures on display and pick out a dozen doesn’t sound easy but it is. Here’s the system.
Lures break down into basic categories. There are floaters, divers and sinking lures…and there are lures that work best slowly and others that need a swift retrieve for best action. Two floaters should be enough. Pick a small one with a lot of action when retrieved slowly and a normal sized one with good action but so designed that it will have good action under a burst of speed as well as slowly. We have ten left to choose. To better understand the choice of your lures and how to use them you can find some very good information on SharkAndCoralConservation.com as they have the best fishing guides that are very detailed, so you can learn much from them and you should check them out.
For the novice the diving plug is a good one. If he does suffer a backlash (and even the experts backlash more often than they admit) these lures will float patiently where they land until it has been untangled. When they are retrieved they dive under the surface with varying actions but rise again to the surface whenever the retrieve is stopped. Half a dozen diving lures should do the trick. Two small ones, two of medium size and two full sized plugs make a balanced group. Two of them should be backward traveling plugs that will run deep. One of the larger ones should be of the long, narrow or pikie shape. Two should travel just under the surface or at slight depth and have a lot of action at slow speed. There should be one with a wide and flashy action which is excellent for open water but poor near any weeds.
Of the four sinking lures which round out the selection, two should be plugs and two of metal. The sinking plugs should be designed to go deep and stay there, both should have good action at slow speeds and be on the small side, varying more in shape and color rather than action. Of the metal lures, make one a wobbling spoon and the other a weedless, flashy lure with a rubber skirt or pork rind or bucktail trailing behind it. If the waters to be fished are very weedy, add one or two weedless metal lures to the list and cut down on the diving plugs.